A Passage Through the Heart of the Banda Sea

The full moon brought movement and life to the ocean. Currents pulsed through the reef, and with them, the rhythm of reproduction began barrel sponges released plumes of spawn like underwater volcanos, while starfish arch upwards, releasing fine strands into the current. The water teemed with energy, a living system in motion.

Our voyage began in Ambon, where an entire world in miniature was revealed. The muck diving here was extraordinary, several variations of Rhinopia, flamboyant cuttlefish, many seahorses, ornate ghost pipefish, and a variety of octopus. Each dive we found something bizarre and brilliant.

Leaving the muck behind we headed off into the vast blue expanse of the Banda Sea. While the famed hammerheads eluded us on this trip, the diving was no less spectacular. Bustling reefs teamed with fusiliers’ and trevallies swirling together in one flid motion whilst enormous tuna carved through blue seeking the current. Everywhere we looked, the reefs were alive.

Sea snakes took centre stage whilst diving at Manuk and Serua. Unbothered and unhurried, their movements graceful against the beautiful backdrop, they graced us with their presence occasionally coming close to inspect us. As the sun began to set and the waters darkened, we were fortunate enough to encounter the incredible teamwork of the sea snakes and trevallies as they hunted in unison, utilising one another to maximise their chances of success.

As we entered the Forgotten Islands, their dramatic typography became our focus. Pristine coral gardens perched atop vastly steep walls dropping off into the blue, the reef sprawled down these sheer faces. The shallows burst with colour, as a cascade of vibrant fish dance across the corals whilst many larger fish patrolled the deeper waters.

Immaculate reefs, packed with life and energy set below crystal clear water was our welcome when we arrived in Alor. From beautiful reefs to more wonderous macro, Alor had it all. As the trip drew to a close, we made our final dives in the Flores Sea, en-route to Maumere. These last few sites offered a different flavour to the journey, open blue, wide sandy slopes, and a chance to encounter larger pelagics. We were
treated to elegant passes from eagle rays, an enormous marble ray resting on the bottom, and a couple
of reef sharks cruising at the reef’s edge. A fitting end to a journey rich in diversity, reminding us once
more of the sheer scale and wonder of Indonesia’s waters.

Aaron Sanders

Mermaid II
Ring of Fire: Ambon – Banda Sea – Forgotten Islands – Alor – Maumere
October 03-14, 2025

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