The New Year dawned gently in Raja Ampat, wrapped in warm equatorial air and the promise of adventure. Aboard Mermaid II, anticipation buzzed from bow to stern as guests prepared to welcome the year in one of the most beautiful corners of the planet. Anchored near Yenbuba, the vessel became more than a liveaboard—it became a floating home where strangers quickly turned into friends, united by saltwater dreams and a shared sense of wonder.
As the sun slipped below the horizon on New Year’s Eve, the crew prepared a dinner to remember. The table was alive with conversation and laughter, stories already forming from the days past and hopes whispered for the dives still to come. After dessert, guests gathered on the sundeck, drawn together beneath a sky heavy with stars. The sea lay calm and dark around them, reflecting distant lights from the shore. As midnight approached, traditions from across the globe were shared—laughter erupted as guests counted down while eating twelve grapes in the final twelve seconds of the year, a ritual believed to bring good luck for the 12 months ahead. When the clock struck midnight, cheers rang out across the water, embraced by a magnificent firework display bursting above Yenbuba. Colours shimmered and faded into the night sky, mirrored by reflections dancing on the sea’s surface. The New Year had arrived, welcomed with joy, connection, and a sense that something special had already begun.
The following morning came early, but no one complained. Divers rose before the sun, fuelled by excitement and coffee, eager for the first dive of the year. The opening dive at Yenbuba itself set a high bar. Descending into the clear water, guests were immediately surrounded by vibrant coral gardens bursting with life. Hard and soft corals layered the reef in every imaginable shape and hue, while schools of batfish drifted past with effortless grace. It was a dive that reminded everyone why Raja Ampat is considered the beating heart of marine biodiversity.
Yet nothing could have prepared the guests for what awaited them on the next dive in the Dampier Strait. What began as a calm and serene descent soon transformed into a moment that would be spoken about for years to come. Tucked near its den, unmistakable and mesmerising, was one of the ocean’s most dangerous creatures: a blue-ringed octopus. Astonishingly visible during the day, it displayed its electric blue rings in a silent warning, glowing against its golden body. Nearby, a crocodile fish lurked menacingly by the den, adding tension to an already extraordinary scene. Divers hovered carefully, hearts pounding, fully aware that they were witnessing something exceedingly rare—a once-in-a-lifetime encounter that balanced beauty and danger in perfect harmony.
As daylight faded, the day concluded with a night dive at Sapokren, a site renowned among
underwater photographers and critter enthusiasts. This muck dive proved to be nothing short of exceptional. Under torchlight, the seabed came alive with strange and wonderful creatures. Great seahorses clung delicately to their holdfasts, coconut octopuses crawled across the sea floor, and dwarf cuttlefish pulsed with color as they glided across the sand. For many, it was considered one of the best night dives they had ever experienced, a surreal end to an already unforgettable day. The journey continued around the islands of Gam, where each dive seemed to unveil another chapter of Raja Ampat’s underwater story. At Swandarek Jetty, green turtles cruised lazily through the shallows, seemingly unfazed by the divers who watched them in awe. Below the jetty, schools of diagonal-banded sweetlips hovered in dense formations, while swirling jacks filled the water column above, creating a mesmerising ballet of motion.
Cape Kri delivered a very different kind of thrill. With full moon tides came challenging currents, demanding focus and teamwork. Hooked in securely, the guests were rewarded with an adrenaline fuelled spectacle. Hunting trevally surged through the water, while schools
of barracuda formed shimmering walls that twisted and reformed in the current. It was raw, powerful, and exhilarating—a reminder of the dynamic forces that shape life beneath the surface.
Among the highlights of the trip were two unforgettable swim-through experiences. At Batu Rufus, guests passed through an archway that felt almost otherworldly. Emerging into shallow coral gardens, many described the sensation as stepping into Avatar: The Way of Water. Sunlight streamed down, illuminating pristine corals and crystal-clear water, creating a dreamlike atmosphere that lingered long after the dive ended. Another iconic swim-through awaited at Boo Window, a site accessible only at high tide. The natural window framed the reef beyond, offering a playful and thrilling experience that delighted everyone lucky enough to pass through it.
Fantasea, also known as Gorgonian Passage, lived up to its reputation. Drifting gently with the current, guests found themselves surrounded by massive gorgonian corals, some larger than the divers themselves. Brilliant pinks and fiery oranges exploded from the walls, each sea fan a testament to time—many estimated to be over a hundred years old. In these perfect conditions, life flourished. Keen eyes spotted pygmy seahorses expertly camouflaged among the sea fans, tiny guardians of an ancient underwater forest.
The grand finale of the ten-day journey unfolded in Misool at the legendary Magic Mountain. From the moment the divers descended, it was clear this dive would be extraordinary. At 23 meters, two Indo-Pacific bottlenose dolphins appeared, twisting and dancing gracefully in front of the group. Their squeaks and clicks echoed through the water, answered by excited squeaks from divers laughing into their regulators. It was intimate, unexpected, and deeply moving.
As the dolphins disappeared into the blue, the dive continued shallower, revealing a massive school of batfish moving effortlessly in the current. Yet Magic Mountain was not finished. In the shallowest part of the reef, a gigantic oceanic manta ray swept in, gliding with serene elegance to a cleaning station. Reef fish attended diligently as the manta swooped and weaved, completely at peace in its surroundings. The guests watched in total awe, suspended in a moment that felt timeless.
When the divers finally surfaced, cheers erupted from every dinghy. Laughter, disbelief, and pure joy filled the air. It was unanimously declared the most exciting dive of the trip—a true highlight and an unforgettable moment that perfectly crowned a New Year adventure in Raja Ampat.

– Natalie Turner-Blackman
Mermaid II
Dec 31, 2025 – to Jan 9, 2026